All Hail Lord Starscream; Ruler of the Decepticons and Emperor of Cybertron.

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I, Starscream, am a scientist. I use have learned many tricks of the trade and there are things that I make to keep my armour in top condition. Here is one such secret and if only Megatron knew.

Images of process will be forthcoming

Do not deviate or substitute any of the oils or ingredients. The lye is calculated specifically for the amounts used in this batch. If you do substitute you may have too little or too much lye. If you wish to make a change to the recipe, I recommend going to this website. The Majestic Mountain Sage. The information they have about oils and soap making is invaluable.

Do not use anything aluminium. This is because lye will eat it.

Wear safety glasses and gloves. If you do not and you hurt yourself, you deserve to fry.

Keep animals, small humans and anything else away form the lye and the working area. Lye is dangerous, I cannot emphasise that enough. Ensure when you are transporting the lye, there is no risk of tripping on anything.

All oils and lye crystals are measured by weight. Water is measured by fluid ounces.

Now that all the warnings are done...we may proceed.

Prepare your soap mould. I use a hinged wooden form that can pop apart. Make sure the form does not pop apart when you pour the soap in as it makes a big mess.

Measure out the 12oz of lye into a metal bowl and measure cold water into a glass container. Take both of these outside and pour the lye into the water. Mix it with a stainless steel spoon until it is dissolved into each other well. Lye will emit harsh fumes, so it's bet to be upwind from your work. The lye will react and become very hot, so you need to allow the temperature to cool until it is about 125F.

Now measure out the oils into separate bowls.

Take a bowl out and blend in your oatmeal with spices, oils, honey and aloe gel. Add a couple spoonfuls of canola oil to the oatmeal blend and stir it until it's moist all over. This helps it blend easier into the traced soap later.

Pour the oils, and bees wax into pot and heat it gently over low heat. Blend them together and turn off the stove and allow it to cool until it is about 100F - 125F.

Once the temperatures of lye and oils have become low enough, and while wearing safety gloves and goggles, pour the lye slowly and carefully into the pot of oil. Stir until the soap reaches trace. For this I use an electric hand blender which I find invaluable for this. Hand blenders speed up the soap process.

Once trace has been identified; it is recognisable by the lines that follow the spoon in the surface of the solution, add the oatmeal blend. Blend this well until the soap mixture starts to resemble a runny pudding. Pour it into the mould, I hope you have it ready or else you have a serious problem.

Once the soap is in the mould, cover it and keep it warm. This is so that the soap heats up and goes into gel stage.

After a day or two, the soap will be ready to take out of the mould. When it is ready you can cut it into bars. My mould can make 32 bars of soap and I use a wood mitre as a guide for the knife.

The soap is not ready until at least six weeks have passed. The lye in the soap solution is still very active and it will burn. Also after six weeks the soap has had a chance to evaporate the excess water and firm up.

Possible problem that may occur on occasion in soap making is separation. What this is is unblended lye pockets form. If it does occur, do not fret. Simply put on gloves and cube the soap up, with the lye gel and melt in a double boiler and repour.

Sunstar and Sunstar's Seeker Sanctuary, are not responsible for anything that might occur from use of this recipe. Use it at your own risk. We are not responsible for any injuries, losses, or other damages that may result from the use this information.

I have collected a set of images to document the process which is soap making. Check back for more images.